Shaping up for gains

Shapewear will firm up its status as a hot category for 1995 with new lingerie styles and a focus on spot control. The trend toward more structured silhouettes, more cleavage, and a focus on comfort are being combined with new cotton and lycra spandex blends. There is even a men’s market, being filled by the Belly Band by Bodyslimmers Inc. The medium-control category is growing the fastest, especially in sculpted, seamless waist trainers and bodysuits.

Shapewear appears to be headed for a boom next year, according to vendors who have been putting a lot of work into new items and looks.

Innovations in spot control and styling, they say, are increasingly giving the category its own identity, apart from the bras and panties that are the bread and butter of the foundations business. This has already helped push figures for some firms into strong double-digit percentage gains this year.

And as the makers look to the next couple of seasons they say shapewear has a lot going for it:

* The growing emphasis on shape and structured silhouettes in ready-to-wear.

* The lust for cleavage, with shapewear supplementing the work of the new cleavage-enhancing bras.

* Pretty lingerie treatments providing shapewear for those who want a softer or more embellished look.

* The growing use of cotton and Lycra spandex blends as an alternative to the prevailing nylon and Lycra blends.

* A new focus on comfort, being rendered in items that offer moderate control.

Vendors predict fashion looks in textured treatments and a broader assortment of fashion colors, including a new range of nude tones, will also build a bigger consumer base with women who have traditionally worn non-control panties for everyday use. Vendors also believe the influx of fashion will continue to drive shapewear business.

Along with the softer-looking lace-embellished items that are adding more fashion to the scene, the sculpted, seamless looks that provide a smooth line continue to be important.

Each trend is being presented in innerwear-outerwear ideas, a direction that has been evolving over the past five years.

Among the items expected to fuel the category are a variety of waist trainers; briefs that tuck in the tummy and lift the derriere, and a lot more all-in-one bodysuits with padded, push-up underwire bras.

Also hot are allover lace and sleek-looking bustiers and corsets — which are traditionally part of foundations but now are gaining a new edge as fashion and control items.

The idea of control is even crossing over into the men’s area. Bodyslimmers Inc. began shipping its Belly Band to catalogs and for selling on two-minute infomercials aimed at male consumers last week.

The fastest growing segment of the shapewear business is in medium control, primarily because it combines comfort with a moderate amount of support, say makers.

Over the past year, vendors also note the shapewear concept has evolved from all over control — which can be uncomfortable and constricting — to spot control in problem areas such as the rummy and thighs.

Key fabrics include shiny satin and matte-luster finishes in nylon and Lycra spandex, along with more assortments of cotton and Lycra blends.

Gwen Widell, senior vice president of merchandising and design worldwide for The Warnaco Group, said shapewear business continues to build because of the growing interest in controlling problem areas, whether it be the waist, tummy or derriere.

Widell noted that two items by Warner’s are a hit: a high-waisted control brief of nylon and Lycra with reinforced tummy control panel that has a wide lace band that doesn’t roll down, and a control brief called The End, which was introduced 20 years ago.

“All of the emphasis on the waist and the derriere in fashion has made The End popular again,” said Widell.

Andrea Jeannet, senior marketing manager for shapewear and Wonderbra at Sara Lee Intimates, said, “Shapewear business has been growing tremendously, and would have even grown more if we hadn’t had production problems.”

Jeannet noted that Sara Lee introduced a group trolled Illusions Body by Bali Shapewear, inspired by the success of spot control in Playtex Secrets, made by Playtex Apparel, another unit of Sara Lee Corp. The Secrets line of control bras and briefs was introduced to department and specialty stores in the U.S. in March 1993, and is expected to generate wholesale sales adding up to $100 million by 1995′ – The Illusions line of shapewear features two bras that give spot control at each side, and two control briefs. Wholesale prices are $11.04 and $12 for the bras, and $8.88 and $9.36 for the briefs. Colors for April deliveries are white, a mauve tone called tea rose and a skin tone called rosewood. Black will be shipped in July.

“Making comfortable control garments that look good under apparel, as well as fashion looks, will bring new users into the market,” said Jeannet. “In our research last year, 33 percent of the women we surveyed said they would wear control panties all of the time or some of the time. This year, we believe the number is a lot higher.”

Bob Niddrie, vice president of merchandising at Playtex Apparel, noted, “Playtex Secrets continues to be a big factor in the shapewear marketplace.”

He said one group in particular by Secrets has received “great reaction” for spring: a moderate control group of bras and briefs of textured cotton and Lycra, trimmed with scallop-pattern nylon and Lycra satin. They provide spot contouring of the tummy and on each side of the bosom.

“There’s a lot of shine and nylon and Lycra out there, and only a limited amount of control items in cotton and Lycra,” said Niddrie. “The American consumer’s appetite is whetted when you present these items in a cotton blend.”

Niddrie noted that while the general trend in shapewear still is dominated by shine and tailored looks, “the next phase will move to more embellishment.”

“We were already seeing these more embellished looks at the trade shows in Europe this fall,” he said.

Cathy Anesi, product manager for foundations and marketing at NCC Industries, maker of Lilyette foundations, noted that an all-in-one control bodysuit with a built-in minimizer bra will be introduced for fall selling. The bodysuit will feature four-way convertible straps and will come in C, D and DD cup sizes. The wholesale price has not been set.

Zerbe said two bodysuits that have a ready-to-wear look and give spot tummy control were “ordered like crazy” for spring. One style features a padded, push-up bra and the other style has an allover stretch lace bra. The bodysuits of nylon and Lycra each wholesales for $16.10.

“Bottoms are really key right now,” said Nancy Ganz, president of Bodyslimmers. “We know there’s a lot going on with the bust, but rears need to be rising, too,”

Ganz noted that a lot of the HotPants looks worn under slit skirts and sheer skirts on the ready-to-wear runways, could fuel the demand for control bottoms.

“We need to focus on separate body parts and spot control,” she said, citing thighs, the belly and the waist as major problems for many women, along with derrieres.

Bodyslimmers began shipping its group of three control shapers of nylon and Lycra called Beautiful Bottoms last week to department and specialty stores. The group will be done in cotton and Lycra for fall. Three styles include a Butt Booster, which lifts the derriere and wholesales for $14.50; a Belly Band, which tucks the tummy and sells for $7.50, and a waist corset, for $10.50. Colors are black, white and nude.

With the growing emphasis on this kind of control, Ganz noted that sales at her firm are nearly double those of a year ago.

In one unusual marketing development, Carol Green, president of Laracris Corp., Chicago, maker of Aubergine shapewear, is introducing her first direct mailer of control items to 10,000 consumers this month. The foldout mailer is called Carol Green’s Inner Circle.

“Consumers have been calling me and asking where they could find a control garment that gives spot control in specific problem areas, such as the tummy or waist,” said Green.

“This is a vehicle to show consumers that we have 31 styles, not just four items, which department stores generally tend to feature.”

Green said she will be adding plus sizes to a number of control styles in the near future. Sizes will be 1X to 3X.

She further noted that a group of lace-trimmed, lingerie — looking shapewear of nylon and Lycra that gives moderate control, called Cami Solutions, has been introduced for spring.

“It’s for the woman who wants just a little smoothness under her clothes,” said Green.

“Bustiers are just exploding for us, and we are making a major commitment to bustiers,” said Richard Gimbel, president and chief executive of Va Bien, a foundations firm.

“Retailers are looking at this classification as shapewear, and executives at the management level are telling their buyers to seek out this merchandise,” said Gimbel, who noted that sales at his company this year are up 45 percent against a year ago.

The top-booking bustier by Va Bien is an allover lace number with galloon-trimmed bra cups, wholesaling for $24.48. It has detachable straps and garters, and has a coordinating bikini panty for $8, and a thong panty for $7. Colors are pink, peach, mink, ivory, navy and black.

Focus on fit & function

Consumers are getting more sensible and savvy about their real furniture needs, according to this year’s Better Homes & Gardens/ HFD survey of consumers and leading retailers.

They’re looking for space-saving furniture for smaller living areas. And they’d like to find more compact wall storage systems, down-sized upholstered chairs for living and family rooms, and much smaller scale dining room furniture.

Everything has to be more functional as well. Multipurpose home entertainment centers in many styles, higher-quality sleeper sofas, and motion furniture–particularly recliners–are in demand. There’s more interest in “premium’ sleep products, and excitement about flotation sleep too.

The BH&G survey for 1985, based on responses from 416 consumer readers, shows that more people look at decorating as a major investment today. In fact, survey respondents ranked furniture as the second most important discretionary purchase after cars, taking precedence over vacations and boats. Burdine’s Linda Martin, director of design, confirmed that “consumers now buy furniture the same way they purchase a home.’

Shoppers are doing a lot more homework when they buy furniture. They’re shopping around more, reading shelter magazines, scanning catalogs, and writing away for manufacturers’ literature.

Also, the male influence in furniture purchase decisions is stronger than ever. According to the BH&G survey, it’s a joint decision for eight out of 10 couples. “The wife used to make the decision. But we’re seeing more younger couples selecting furniture together. It’s a big purchase for these couples,’ said Manny Stratos, divisional merchandising manager of furniture for Hess’s in Allentown, Pa.

Stores like Glick’s in Columbus, Ohio, are adjusting their hours to meet the needs of these joint decision makers. “We now have early morning sales and later ones too,’ said Ronald Blank, executive vice president.

These assure young buyers shop around for furniture just the way they do when they buy their cars. Three fourths of the consumers interviewed in the BH&G poll visited several stores before making their last furniture purchase.

Retailers observed this trend too. “Our customers absolutely shop the competition. They make at least two or three shopping comparisons. Construction, quality, and value are important to them,’ explained Blank.

Larry Kirchner, director of trend merchandising for the Dayton Hudson Department Store Co., in Minneapolis, said, “Consumers have preconceived ideas about furniture. The shelter magazines and our stores have influenced and educated them,’ he suggested. “We’ve promoted leather as a quality investment, and it’s doing well.’

Educated consumers

Almost half of the BH&G consumers interviewed read how-to-buy articles, and a third of those polled write away for manufacturers’ literature. About two thirds said they get help by looking at pictures and advertisements of room settings.

These disciplined consumers may take up to six months to look for a planned purchase. Most often they buy one item and will decorate only one room at a time. But retailers have found consumers are willing to pay more for quality furniture. “We are seeing more single quantity purchases,’ said Jerry Christophersen, upholstery merchandise manager for Gabbert’s in Minneapolis. Glick’s Blank agreed that the average ticket price is increasing.

The 1985 style preferences are country casual and traditional, according to BH&G/HFD consumers and retailers surveyed. Although traditional is a stronger volume business, retailers said contemporary design is still a growth category. Eclectic buying is also on the rise.

The living room still leads in decorating expenditure, according to the survey. “Consumers want eclectic pieces for the living room,’ Kirchner advised. But he pointed out that consumers still choose matched dining room and bedroom pieces. Burdine’s Linda Martin said she has conducted seminars to help consumers update matched suite living rooms with eclectic design and individual pieces.

Bill Peterson, store manager for Freed’s in Dallas, agreed that consumers seek single pieces for the living room that they “correlate’ to one another. He also confirmed the BH&G survey’s findings when he said consumers mainly buy traditional matched pieces for master bedrooms and dining areas. He noted that although customers may buy matched tables and chairs for a dining area, they will add a lacquer china to the set.

Scale and function are primary considerations in furniture purchases. “Consumers are still combining rooms. They’re putting living and dining areas together or planning second bedrooms with computer desk arrangements. So they want smaller scale pieces. We also see them using more sleeper sofas in these rooms,’ Peterson summarized.

Over 17 percent more of those interviewed favor smaller scale furniture this year, compared to a year ago, according to the poll. There’s even a trend toward less formal, smaller-scale dining areas, according to retailers. Tom Kozlowski, merchandising manager for Trenton, N.J.’s Park Lane Furniture, said consumers are buying smaller dining room tables and fewer chairs.

Kirchner noted that he’s seeing more interest in flip-top tables. Multipurpose extension dining tables and tables that can be used as desks are popular, according to Linda Martin. Manny Stratos has also observed more interest in smaller dinettes.

Diverse wall systems

The trend to combine living spaces is changing the furniture mix for Carafiol’s in St. Louis, according to Harvey Carafiol, merchandising vice president. “The hottest categories for us aren’t just smaller scale pieces. The multifunctional home entertainment centers and motion furniture categories are strong,’ he said.

Home entertainment centers continue to be the important new furniture purchase according to other retailers. Kozlowski said, “These centers are 1985’s purchase to hold 1984’s VCR and other electronic components.’

Consumers want extra storage space in home entertainment centers, according to Kirchner, who asserted that his “customers want these centers in a broad variety of styles and designs to use in living rooms and family rooms.’

Ronald Blank revealed Glick’s strategy of targeting furniture in this category to all income levels. “We’ve expanded our line of wall storage systems and home entertainment centers to include budget chic to middle range and quality pieces.’ He also said consumers want multifunctional upholstered furniture to go along with these new storage systems.

“Multifunctional furniture becomes a focal point in the living room now,’ Kozlowski said, adding, “Consumers are willing to spend more for something that looks good, and is durable and functional.’

Value in bedding sought

Sleeper sofas are being promoted as multifunctional furniture, and consumers are buying them for almost every room. Jerry Christophersen said that quality and size are the biggest concerns in best sleeper sofa selection.

Besides having an interest in scale and function, consumers are more concerned about the quality of their sleep this year. They’re willing to pay more for premium sleep products, and they’re looking for new ways to sleep too. Nearly two thirds of the BH&G respondents said they would buy a queen- or king-size bed. And a surprising 18.5 percent of those surveyed said they would select a waterbed.

“Consumers have had enough of 50-100 percent off in bedding. They want value and know a good price,’ related Kozlowski. “The store’s reputation, brand name, and warranty are all important,’ added Dayton Hudson’s Kirchner, who acknowledged that premium bedding is a top category for his stores.

The flotation sleep area has more than a murmur of interest. “Our requests for hybrids outnumber those for traditional waterbeds by nearly eight to one.’ Glick’s Blank said, emphasizing that brand name helps in this category. Expecting to see growth in hybrids, because they can be used with regular lines, is Stratos, who said, “We have six hybrid galleries, but they haven’t set the world on fire yet.’

Peterson saw hybrid systems as a trend too. “They account for 10-15 percent of Freed’s bedding sales,’ he said. Tom Kozlowski thinks waterbeds are a growing category for specialty stores rather than for full-line furniture stores.

About brand names

Brand name often influences buying decisions in the sleep and recliner categories according to retailers interviewed. In other furniture categories, most retailers admit that it’s only a third or fourth place consideration.

Hess’s Stratos said brand name awareness is only important for higher-end furniture purchases. Larry Kirchner claimed that his customers look for a national name in wood furniture. Bob Brandt, president of Bayles Furniture, in Rochester, N.Y., agreed that “consumers rely on recognized brand awareness for categories like brass beds or upholstered furniture.’ Harvey Carafiol and Larry Kirchner suggested that styling and quality were higher priorities in these categories.

Accessories are icing on the cake for most retailers. They are tie-in purchases, retailers reveal. The majority of BH&G consumers polled said they changed or added accessories in one or more rooms in the last two years. Almost half of them said they added a “country’ accent too.

It’s the way a store merchandises accessories that determines local trends, retailers believed. Manny Stratos suggested that crystal lamps have been dramatic sellers. The California and Southwest themes in accessories have been big, according to Jerry Christophersen. Larry Kirchner said consumers are buying fewer and larger accessories from his company’s stores. Linda Martin also said that fewer large-scale pieces are a more important look in accessories.

From the experts: pocket electronics keep the numbers handy

Pocket-sized electronic devices have been developed to improve sailors’ performance during competitions. Sailors may use the Family Radio Service for communicating with race officials while aloft. The water-resistant Kestrel anemometer is handy for measuring windspeed.

Small, light and powerful – these are just some of the criteria for handheld electronics. What’s available, what can it do to improve your racing performance, how easy is it to use, and does it fit in your pocket? These were questions we asked as we investigated the latest in handheld electronic devices.

Keeping in Touch

One of the best breakthroughs for recreational activities is the FCC’s allocation of 14 new UHF FM frequencies between 462.5625 and 467.7125 MHz. Known as the Family Radio Service, these walkie-talkie-type units are incredibly small, but can deliver communications over a 2- to 5-mile range. Slightly larger than a beeper, the Icom IC-4008A units we tried definitely met our “pocket” criteria.

The FRS radio is perfect for race committees and sailors alike, potentially eliminating the annoying clutter and extraneous radio traffic we encounter on VHF frequencies, especially on weekends. In addition to 14 exclusive channels, users can select from as many as 38 “group” subchannels.

How about this? With the race committee and all the competitors set in the same group, over-early callbacks could be announced without interference. You can even use these radios with an optional earphone/microphone headset that is voice activated. This setup offers hands-free operation – no more fumbling for the radio while you’re trying to sheet in and work your way through a crowded start. The Icom units we tested even have fold-down antennas that reduce the chance of breakage and allow the radio to fit into the smallest pocket. For two-boat testing or communication between a coach boat and a dinghy sailor, the Icom offers a clear-sounding alternative to the bulkier VHF, and, at $300 a pair, is pensive option.

Unfortunately, the market for these bite-size radios is so new that no one offers a waterproof unit. However, all units are small enough to easily fit in a sandwich-size plastic bag, which should offer adequate protection in most cases.

How Hard is it Blowing?

For most small-boat and one-design sailors, exact windspeed is more a point of interest than a critical tidbit of information. There’s no shortage of pocket-sized anemometers in the marketplace, so if actual numbers are important to you, you’re in luck. To find out which one we liked best, we compared three of the most common anemometers: the Davis Turbo Meter and two units imported by Speedtech Instruments, the Skywatch Elite, and the Kestrel 1000.

The Kestrel, which retails for $85.00, is by far the smallest of the three units we tried. It retracts into its own protective case, it’s waterproof and shock resistant, and it even floats! The Kestrel measures current, average, and maximum windspeed in every imaginable unit. It even has an auto-shutdown feature to preserve the battery if you forget to turn it off. The LCD display has large, easy-to-read numbers, even in bright sunlight.

The Davis Turbo Meter, which retails for $165, is the only one of the group with an LED display. Although advertised to provide excellent viewing contrast, even in bright sunlight, I found that the display screen was small and hard to read in direct sunlight. The Turbo Meter isn’t waterproof, and there’s no maximum or averaging speed features.

At $135, the Skywatch Elite has many features – more than either the Kestrel or the Turbo Meter. Using the built-in compass, you can establish wind direction as well as velocity. Like the Kestrel unit, the Elite has windspeed maximum, average, and current velocity, all shown on a large, easy-to-read display. One drawback of the Skywatch Elite is that you have to remove a protective cap to expose the wind cups. There is no lanyard attachment for either the instrument itself or the removable cap – one more thing to lose overboard. The unit is described as weatherproof, but only with the cap in place.

The Electronic Scratch Sheet

Pocket organizers are catching on like wildfire. Since I purchased my Palm Pilot Pro about eight months ago, I’ve loaded it with appointments, notes, time records and expense data, phone numbers and addresses. With the Palm’s Hot Synch feature, and the software the unit comes with, data transfer between your laptop or desktop PC and the Palm is really a snap. But what could my Palm do for me on a boat? It didn’t take much time to come up with a list.

How many times have you lost the scratch sheet for your race overboard or gotten it soaked beyond recognition? The Palm III is compatible with Microsoft Excel and Word, so you can prepare handicap spreadsheets in advance and transfer them to the unit before you go racing. How about recording fleet standings during a regatta or keeping a work list for your boat? Phone numbers for backup crewmembers are at your fingertips when your foredeck doesn’t show at the last minute. Its uses are endless.

Pocket Navigation

The handheld GPS is one of the greatest inventions of the last 15 years. The trouble is, for most units you need a chart to go along with them. Marking a lat/lon position on a folded chart while sitting on the rail just doesn’t cut it. The solution is easy – a handheld chart plotter, and once you use one, you’ll never go back.

Magellan’s NAV 6000 is a 12-channel, splash-proof unit measuring 3.25[inches] x 7.5[inches] x 1.75[inches]. Its convex 4-inch diagonal LCD screen is great for a clear look at the vector charts stored on a C-Map NT cartridge, which is loaded inside the unit. The screen magnifies the display information so it’s easy to see and find yourself on the chart.

With a chart plotter you can use the cursor keys to set the crosshairs on your next mark and get a readout with direct range and bearing to the mark. It updates continually as you move. What’s more important, this capability is visual rather than numerical. In a busy cockpit, just telling the helmsman to simply steer left or right can eliminate the potential confusion in the direction-giving process.

A constant danger in any race is grounding on close-shore tacks. With the C-Map cartography, you can zoom in to close scale (.25 mile), and know where you are relative to rocks or shoals. It becomes a simple task to confirm your position on a paper chart, too. With an average selling price of $600 for the NAV 6000, and about $200 each for the C-Map cartridges, this choice for pocket navigation packs a lot of punch.

A new player in the pocket charting game is Lowrance Electronics’ GlobalMap 100. Their new approach to cartography won them an innovation award at this year’s IMTEC industry show in Chicago.

The GlobalMap comes with a built-in background map of the world. What’s unique about the GlobalMap is that the map can be enhanced with data from Lowrance’s IMS CD ROM, which is included with the unit. From the CD ROM you can download up to two megabytes of additional map detail. The beauty of this is that you can download chart details you need for the area in which you’ll be racing. With a list price of $450, including the software and data transfer cable, Lowrance has definitely brought electronic charting to a new level.

Tracking the Competition

You’ll need a big pocket for the new Tasco Lasersite 600 or 800, which measure in at 7[inches] x 5[inches] x 4[inches]. But with the ability to make precise range measurements of any object to within 3 feet, the Lasersite is an interesting option for keeping track of other boats, whether racing or two-boat tuning. For racers, the 800 model with 800 yards of range is the best choice. The two-button control is easy to use and the Camcorder-style hand strap keeps the unit secure while you take a sight. The Lasersite even has a “reflective” control for using it in the rain. Once the initial setup is complete, using the Lasersite is a simple matter of point and shoot. Within seconds the range is displayed on-screen. The Tasco Lasersite 600 (600-yard range) retails for about $500 and the 800 model around $675.

Even though it’s been around for years, the KVH Datascope must be included on any list of pocket-sized tools for the racing sailor. The Datascope is an extremely accurate fluxgate compass as well as a range finder. You can use the Datascope to track your competition’s speed by checking relative bearing changes, or using the scale built into the scope to find range. Don’t expect the accuracy of the Lasersite, but you can definitely keep track of substantial changes. With the Datascope you will need to know or estimate the height of the object you are taking the range on and use the on-screen scale to get a reading. Not exactly point and shoot, but functional. It’s high quality, and at $445, is a solid piece of gear that definitely fits in just about any large pocket.

Small Compass Wonder

The Outback ES imported by Speedtech is the most feature-packed handheld fluxgate compass I’ve ever seen. It offers both day and night use capability with its display backlighting, and it doubles as either a countup or countdown timer for starts and handicap timing.

Worried about a starboard-tack boat? Use the Outback’s bearing feature to check for relative bearing change of the oncoming boat to help determine if you can cross. The Outback even has an auto shut-down feature that is user-programmable in five-minute increments. With a list price of $99.95, Speedtech’s Outback ES is a serious contender in the electronic handbearing compass market.